Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol's Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I PDF

By Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana

ISBN-10: 0816675791

ISBN-13: 9780816675791

The first within the four-part sequence Habits of Being, charting the social, cultural, and political expression of garments as obvious in the street and in museums, in motion pictures and literature, and in ads and magazines, this quantity includes a close-up specialize in accessories—the shoe, the hat, the necklace—intimately attached to the body.
 
These essays, such a lot of that have seemed within the state of the art Italian sequence Abito e Identità, supply new theoretical and historic takes at the position of garments, costume, and add-ons within the building of the fashionable topic. With contributions through best students in paintings historical past, semiotics, literary and picture experiences, historical past and type reports, and with extra writings through psychoanalysts, fabric artists, and model designers from Europe and the US, readers will come upon a dizzying array of rules concerning the smooth physique and the ways that we costume it.
 
From views at the “model physique” to Sonia Delaunay’s designs, from Fascist-era Spanish women’s prescribed methods of dressing to Futurist vests, from Barbara Stanwyck’s anklet to Salvatore Ferragamo’s sandals, from a poet’s tiara to a worker’s cap, from the scarlet letter to the yellow superstar: Accessorizing the Body imparts startling insights into how a lot the main modest accent could reveal.
 
Contributors: Zsófia Bán, Eotvos Lorand U, Budapest; Martha Banta, U of California, la; Vittoria C. Caratozzolo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Paola Colaiacomo, U of Rome “La Sapienza”; Maria Damon, U of Minnesota; Giuliana Di Febo, U of Rome 3; Micol Fontana; Manuela Fraire; Becky Peterson, U of latest Mexico; Jeffrey C. Stewart, U of California, Santa Barbara; Vito Zagarrio, U of Rome 3; Franca Zoccoli.

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Extra resources for Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I

Example text

The style from which the fortunes of the Fontana sisters began derived “from their taste for the past (the remote past, not the dramatic past we had just come out of ) with some indulgence to the Renaissance. Women liked it; the colors seemed chosen by an artist” (149). Micol lets herself remember: from Rita Hayworth to Joan Collins, from Colette Rosselli to Renata Tebaldi, from Margaret Truman to Jackie Kennedy, from Marella Agnelli Caracciolo to the enfante of Spain, from Linda Christian to Kelly Le Brock, from Soraya of Persia to Maria Pia of Savoy—to cite only a few—she describes their beauty, their elegance, in some cases, sadly, their adverse destiny, but also their complete faith in her taste and in that of her beloved and inventive sisters, Zoe and Giovanna, who knew how to find the right shape for every body and for every occasion.

Reflected like one mirror in another in the appearance of the always-the-same” and thus as characterized by a “hellish repetition”—fashion represents the triumph of the commodity form in which the body has become a “gaily decked-out corpse” (thus showing “the sex appeal of the inorganic”). ”1 9 Having displayed the charm of a devitalized, estranged nature, the body becomes a cadaver-like support for clothing. ”2 0 There is an exchange between the body and its dresses, between the organic and the inorganic.

After having admired its harmony, I examine it closely and am enchanted by the extraordinary finishing: more than seams, what I see are chiselings made by high craftsmen. The style from which the fortunes of the Fontana sisters began derived “from their taste for the past (the remote past, not the dramatic past we had just come out of ) with some indulgence to the Renaissance. Women liked it; the colors seemed chosen by an artist” (149). Micol lets herself remember: from Rita Hayworth to Joan Collins, from Colette Rosselli to Renata Tebaldi, from Margaret Truman to Jackie Kennedy, from Marella Agnelli Caracciolo to the enfante of Spain, from Linda Christian to Kelly Le Brock, from Soraya of Persia to Maria Pia of Savoy—to cite only a few—she describes their beauty, their elegance, in some cases, sadly, their adverse destiny, but also their complete faith in her taste and in that of her beloved and inventive sisters, Zoe and Giovanna, who knew how to find the right shape for every body and for every occasion.

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Accessorizing the Body: Habits of Being I by Cristina Giorcelli, Paula Rabinowitz, Manuela Fraire, Micol Fontana


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